Come visit the new site!

The new site is finally live!
Come visit us at DIYBDSM.com

We’ll be leaving this one around for a while, but we won’t be adding any new tutorials here.
Make sure you update your bookmarks to point to the new site. DIYBDSM.com is where all the new content will go from now on.

Thanks!

Mistress Velvet and Freyr

Show us your kinky crafts!

So, I was thinking that it might be really nice for everyone to see what you have been up to.
If you’ve made any kinky crafts, email a few pics to me at diybdsm@gmail.com.
I would love to showcase them on the site.

Thanks!

The Spreader Bar

Here’s my take on the spreader bar:

Let’s start by creating the bar itself. Most of the time you’ll see hardwood dowels being used, but I was looking to do something a little different, so I used some 3/4″ x 3/4 x 18″ maple that was left over from another project. Whatever you choose, start by sanding it with 120 grit sandpaper. Apply a coat of ebony stain. Once the stain is dry, sand it lightly with 220 grit sandpaper. Finally apply two coats of a wipe-on polyurethane.

Using a 1/4″ bit, drill a one inch deep hole in each end.

Screw in a 2 1/2″ eye bolt.

Here are some finished spreader bars. I made two that were 18″ long and one that was 28″ long.
I would recommend taking some measurements of person who’ll be using the bar so that you can customize it’s length. You don’t want it to be too uncomfortable 😉

Let me know if you have any questions! Also, drop me a line if you make any of the projects. I would love to hear from you.

Enjoy!

Cool Wrist Cuffs

Let’s make some super easy, super cool, super nice, hot pink wrist cuffs!
Of course, you don’t have to make yours hot pink…

These should cost you about $15 for a pair… less if you make several.

For those of you who aren’t great seamsters, here’s a nice primer that covers pretty much all of the sewing techniques that are needed to complete this project:
Make Your Own Gear Sewing Primer

(click on any of the pictures to see a larger view)

Here are the parts you’ll need:

• 2 – 3″ x 9.5″ ultrasuede
• 2 – 2.5″ x 9″ quilt batting
• 1 – 2.5″ x 9″ sew-in heavy weight interfacing
• 1 – 18″ x 1″ nylon webbing
• 2 – 1″ D-Rings
• 1 – 1.5″ welded steel D-Ring
• 1 – 2″ x 3/4″ Velcro

With the “good” sides facing each other, sew the two pieces of ultrasuede together. Sew a 1/4 inch seam leaving one of the small ends open.

Here’s a little tip: trim the corners off the ultrasuede so that you’ll have nice, sharp corners when you turn it right-side out. If you leave the corners, they will bunch up and leave sloppy corners.

Turn about two inches of the sleeve right-side out…

Stack the batting and interfacing together with the interfacing between the two pieces of the batting.

Insert the interfacing/batting stack into the sleeve and start pulling the sleeve down around the batting…

It helps to reach in and grab the end of the sleeve holding the batting/interfacing in place while you pull the rest of the sleeve down around it.

You can use a dowel or a chopstick to move the batting around and get everything nice and neat inside the sleeve.

Next, you’ll want to close up the remaining end…

I like to use fabric adhesive to hold things in place while I top stitch.

Sew a top stitch around the outside of the sleeve. You’ll want to stay about 3/16″ from the edge.

Here is a finished sleeve. Now lets add the strap…

Place two of the 1″ D-Rings on the nylon webbing. Fold over about five inches of nylon webbing.
Sew on the D-Rings and webbing centering it on the sleeve about two inches from the top.

Sew the larger D-Ring into place about 2 1/2 inches down from the other two D-Rings.
Sew some vertical stitches between the D-Rings to strengthen the connection between the webbing and the sleeve.

Sew one half of the Velcro to the webbing and sleeve.

Sew the other half of the Velcro to the end of the webbing.

And you’re done!
Here are some pictures of the completed cuffs…

You can also make a slightly bigger version of this cuff for you ankle.
Here’s the modified parts list:

• 2 – 4″ x 13.5″ ultrasuede
• 2 – 3.5″ x 9″ quilt batting
• 1 – 3.5″ x 9″ sew-in heavy weight interfacing
• 1 – 24″ x 1″ nylon webbing
• 2 – 1″ D-Rings
• 1 – 1.5″ welded steel D-Ring
• 1 – 2″ x 3/4″ Velcro

If you like this, leave me a note in the comments. I would love to here from you.
Same goes for questions! If any part of this is not clear or if you have any ideas to make this better, drop me a note in the comments section, or send me an email from the Contact Me page. I promise to get back to you.

Enjoy!

Ice Lock

What’s an Ice Lock

An ice lock is a device that is locked together using frozen water. In this case two PVC pipe fittings are filled with water and frozen. The two fittings will remained locked together until enough of the ice melts to allow the pieces to separate.
This is great for self bondage, since you can attach the ice lock to cuffs, chains, etc., and stay locked up until the ice melts.
There are several commercial ice locks, but they are quite expensive. This ice lock is not only easy to build, but all of the parts can be purchased at pretty much any home improvement center for around $10.

Let’s get started! You can click on any of the pictures for a larger view.

Assembly:

Here are the parts you’ll need:

• 1 – 1.5 inch PVC clean-out fitting with plug
• 1 – 1.5 inch PVC end cap with plug
• 1 – 1/4″ x 2″ eye bolt
• 1 – 1/4″ x 4″ or 6″ eye bolt
• 1 – 1.5″ fender washer
• 4 – 1/2″ washers
• 6 – 1/4″ nuts

Drill 1/4″ holes in the end of both the plugs.

Attach the 2″ eye bold to the one of the plugs using two washers and nuts.

Screw the plug into the clean-out fitting.

Attach the other eye bolt to the other plug using two more washers and nuts. If you’re using a 4″ eye bolt (like me) you’ll need to attach it to the plug “backwards”. The 4″ bolt is just a little short and you’ll want plenty of extra bolt showing for the next step.

Attach the 1.5 inch fender washer using the remaining two nuts.

Since we inserted the eye bolt into the plug “backwards”, we’ll need to screw it into the end cap fitting “backwards”. This little hack can be avoided it you can find a 6 inch eye bolt.

When everything has been assembled, you should be able to fully insert one end of the device into the other.

How to use it:

It’s pretty simple. Just fill it with water, insert the right section into the left and freeze it. The two sections will be stuck together until the ice melts! You can control the amount of time it takes the lock to release by varying the amount of water in the device as well as by varying the temperature in the room. So long as the temperature in your room is above freezing, the device will always unlock… eventually.
I suggest experimenting with the lock a bit before you use it. You don’t want to tie yourself up thinking that you’ll be out in 30 minutes and have the lock take 3 hours to release.

I’ve said this before, but it’s worth repeating: self bondage can be very dangerous. Never attempt any form of self bondage without at least two release methods. I know you’ll be tempted to think that since this lock relies on melting water and that unless the laws of physics change, that you don’t need a second release method. What if you get yourself tied up just as your house is catching on fire? What if the lock releases, but one end gets caught on something that’s just out of reach?

Be creative, have fun, and be safe… and don’t do anything I wouldn’t do!

The Rope Handcuff

Let’s learn to tie a rope handcuff.

Start by making two loops in your rope, each about 10 inches long.

Cross the left loop over the right creating a third loop in the center.

Thread the loop that is now on the right through the new center loop creating a knot.

Pull the know taught.

To use the handcuffs, place your partners hands though the loops…

and pull the ends of the rope to tighten.
Finish the tie with an additional knot in the center.

You might want to keep a couple of these in you bedside table or placed discretely (or not) around the house so you’ll have them handy when your partner’s been naughty 😉

Play safe and don’t do anything I wouldn’t do.

The Cinch Noose

This time we’re going to learn how to tie a cinch noose.  The noose is really easy to tie and is an indispensable part of the bondage enthusiast’s toolkit.  I like to tie several of these from 3-4 foot lengths of 1/4 inch rope for handy use in bondage sessions.

First, let’s tie the noose:

First, make a 10 to 12 inch “S” near one end of the rope.  Leave an extra 12 inches or so at the end of the rope for tying the “coil”.

Start looping the end of the rope around (approximately) the center of the “S”.  This will divide the “S” into a top loop and a bottom loop.

Continue coiling the rope tightly around the “S” until you reach the top of the top loop.

Thread the end of the rope through the top loop.

Tug on the bottom loop to take the slack out of the top loop ensuring that the end of the rope doesn’t come free.

Now let’s use the noose to securely tie your partner’s hands:

Make several loops in a piece of rope. I like to use a thicker rope for binding arms and legs since it’s a little more comfortable than thin rope and not as likely to cut off circulation.
Insert one hand into the coiled rope, slide on the noose, insert the other hand, and tighten the noose.

That’s all there is to it, so go out and tie someone up today!

Play safe and don’t do anything I wouldn’t do.

The Infamous “Special Ring Device”

So, what is the “Special Ring Device” or “SRD” anyway?

Simply, the SRD is a device made up of two metal rings that lets you take up slack in a piece of rope.

A piece of rope is fed through two steel rings in such a way that friction causes the rope to slide in one direction but not the other.  The device is most commonly used by self-bondage enthusiasts to perform strict bondage scenarios that would otherwise be very difficult if not impossible without a partner.  A very tight hogtie can, for example, be accomplished by attaching the SRD between bound feet and hands.  When the SRD is pulled taught, the hands and feet are drawn together.

To use the SRD, you’ll need two welded metal rings and two lengths of rope.  I’ve found that rings with an outer diameter of two inches works well with 3/4 inch nylon rope.  If you use a different size rope, then you may need to experiment with different ring sizes.  I’ve found that the effectiveness of the device decreases as the diameter of the ring increases in comparison to the thickness of the rope.  For example, if you are using 1/4 inch rope, you might find that the device slips with the two inch rings.  Switching to one inch rings should solve the problem.

The first step is to tie the rings together using one of your ropes.  The other end of this rope should be tied to your anchor point.  In the case of the hogtie example, you would tie the rings to your feet.

Feed the second rope through the rings from the back.

Next, feed the rope over the top of the front ring and through the back ring.

Feed the rope a second time through the back ring from front to back.  When you pull on the “short” end of the second rope, it will slip through the rings.  When you pull on the “long” end, it will not move.

Going back to the hogtie example, if you tie the “long” end of this rope to your hands and pull on the “short” end, your feet will be drawn towards your hands, but you will not be able to pull them away.

Important: Keep in mind that bondage (especially self bondage) can be a very dangerous activity. Never, ever, tie yourself without at least two release methods. If you’re interested in self bondage, please take a long hard look at the safety section of Bound Anna’s website.

I hope you enjoyed the tutorial! If you have any questions or comments please feel free to leave a reply to this post. You can also drop me a line on the Contact Me page, or chat me up on Meebo.

Next time we’ll talk about how to tie a cinch noose.

Until then, don’t do anything I wouldn’t do 😉